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1. Model primed with 1500 Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 black. Getting a smooth result is key here.
2. SMS Blue Grey is applied with the goal of achieving 100% opacity. These paints spray really nicely and it's easy to get a good surface finish with them.
3. Some panel variation is introduced. It makes sense to do this now instead of after the first ink layer as doing so would decrease the contrast in the inks.
4. Tamiya X-20 is brushed onto the model followed by Liquidex Titanium White ink. The ink is then stippled while drying which creates a very random pattern after the ink drys.
5. Preshading, I painted some select panel lines to re-introduce some random shading. I chose the ugliest colour I could find, Tamiya Red Brown 2 darkened with black.
6. The model is misted over with a 60% opacity layer of SMS Blue grey. The model is then sealed in a lacquer clear varnish to seal the underlying titanium white.
7. A 2/1 mix of Liquidex Carbon Black and Titanium white is applied to the model in the same way as the earlier layer (Stippled over top X-20).
8. The black inks are then wiped away with a paper towel dampened with X-20. This darkens the overall shade of the model and fills in panel lines, acting as a wash.
9. The painting is complete with a final layer of Blue Grey to set the final colour of the model.
Painting an F-14 with the layered ink patina effect
Painting an F-14 with the layered ink patina effect
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I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
closeup of the head I used an excato blade to scratch hits into it
used brown paint with water for the rust wash effect
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
I’m 14 and only had limited tools.
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